Amal Nagm

مشروع لحل مشكلات الحجيج المصرين

وللذين لايعرفون ما هو خط سكه حديد الحجاز فهاهي قصته :
اهتمت الدولة العثمانية في إطار سياستها التنموية بتطوير وسائل المواصلات والاتصالات, لربط ولايات الدولة العثمانية بشبكة من الخطوط البرقية وخطوط السكك الحديدية. ففي أول مايو من عام 1900م أصدر السلطان عبدالحميد أوامره ببناء خط سكة حديد الحجاز ليربط بين دمشق والمدينة المنورة. والجدير بالذكر أن الخطة الأساسية لهذا المشروع كانت تهدف لمد الخط عبر الأراضي الحجازية إلى مكة المكرمة ثم يستمر مع ساحل البحر الأحمر إلى اليمن. ولكن بعض الأحداث السياسية قد أوقفت أعمال الخط عند المدينة المنورة
تم تشييد خط سكة حديد الحجاز على مرحلتين ؛ المرحلة الأولى استغرقت خمس سنوات من محطة دمشق إلى محطة ذات الحاج ن و بلغ طول خطها الحديدي 750 كيلو ، بما في ذلك الخط الفرعي من حيفا إلى درعا و طوله 161 كيلو . أما المرحلة الثانية ، التي امتددت داخل الأراضي الحجازية لتصل إلى المدينة المنورة ، فقد بلغ طول خطها الحديدي 713 كيلو . و استغرق بناء المرحلة الثانية ثلاث سنوات فقط ، و لذا يعد بناء خط سكة حديد الحجاز من أسرع إنجازات الدولة العثمانية في مجالات تشييد خطوط السكك الحديدية . و تمكن السلطان عبدالحميد من مد الخط البرقي الحجازي من السلط إلى المدينة المنورة عام 1900 هـ للاطمئنان على قوافل الحج أثناء مسيرتها و في الوقت الذي كانت تجمع فيه الأموال لتغطية نفقات المشروع ، اتخذت الاستعدادات لتنظيم الإدارات المشرفة على بناء الخط و إجراء المفاوضات من اجل الحصول على الأراضي ، و مسح المناطق التي يمر بها الخط و تجهيز الأدوات و المعدات اللازمة . كما تكونت عدة لجان لبناء الخط الحجازي ، أهمها اللجنة العامة و مقرها الآستانة و يرأسها الصدر الأعظم . و كانت مهمة هذه اللجنة تدبير الأموال اللازمة و إجرات المفاوضات الضرورية للحصول على الأراضي و التعاقد مع الشركات و المؤسسات ذات العلاقة بالمعدات و الآليات المرتبطة ببناء الخط. أما اللجنة المحلية فقد شكلت لبناء الخط و مقرها دمشق و يرأسها والي دمشق . و تقوم هذه اللجنة ببحث خطط و مقترحات المدير العام و تضعها أمام اللجنة العامة لاتخاذ القرار النهائي . أما الإدارة الفنية فقد عهد بها إلى شكل كبير المنهدسين و اسمه ميسنر باشا ، و هو مهندس ألماني ذو شهرة عالمي ، و خبرة طويلة في بناء الجسور و غيرها من الإنشاءات الفنية لمقاولين و منهدسين نمساويين و إيطاليين . و اعتمد إدارة الخط في أعمال البناء على الأهالي المقيمين في المناطق المجاورة للخط الحديدي ، على الجنود و الضبط العاملين في القوات العثمانية ، من كتائب مشاة و مهندسين و فنيين و جنود و مساجين .

PAVAROTTI-CELINE DION-I HATE YOU THEN I LOVE YOU

How To Plant A Rose Bush

Prepare the rose
A few hours before you plant your rose, thoroughly water it while it's still in the container. Position the rose so it has access to sun and rain, but isn't too exposed if conditions are windy. Ideally roses should be positioned in full sun with a fertile, well-drained soil.

Prepare the soil
Remove any weeds and mulch from the site. Using a spade, dig a deep hole about 45 centimetres wide and 30 centimetres deep. Put the soil in a wheelbarrow and mix it with the same quantity of compost. Remove old roots from the soil as they may grow back. You can also mix in a handful of slow release fertiliser to improve your plant's chances of survival. Using a garden fork, prick the sides and base of the hole to break up the soil and encourage drainage. Add a layer of the compost mixture to the base of the hole to aid growth

Position
Place the rose in it's pot in position in the hole. Check that the crown of the plant is at the same level as the existing ground level. Add or remove some compost mixture if the depth is wrong

Plant
Gently slide the rose out of its container. Tease out some of the roots around the root ball so they will grow away from the plant and into the surrounding soil. Lift it into the centre of the hole. Replace the rest of the compost mixture around the root ball. Firm the soil around the base of the rose with your hands to remove any air pockets

Water
Water the area with a full watering can of water to help the soil stick to the roots. Your rose will get enough rainwater from the average British winter, but it may need extra water in dryer conditions. It should be in bloom by late Spring.

How To Build A Raised Planter Bed

Measure Twice, Cut Once
A solid planter bed starts with good wood. Rough Redwood or Cedar provides the best structure for your planter beds. It's also very important to use untreated wood as the chemicals in treated lumber could find their way into the soil and into your essential edibles. You can purchase the walls of your planter bed in two by 12 foot lengths. For a 12foot planter bed, you will only need to cut the two end pieces. Use your tape measure and mark out two, three foot sections on the two by 12 foot board. Your carpenter's square will provide a straight line all the way around the board when you cut. The four support posts on the inside of your planter bed need to be 11 ¼” high. Measure out these pieces out on your 4x4 post. You'll want to use the carpenter's square here to insure a straight cut all the way around as the saw will not be able to make it through the post on the first pass. And the most important thing – don't forget to wear your safety glasses and keep your fingers away from the blade

Clamp It
When fitting your planter walls around your 4x4 posts, it doesn't matter if you overlap the boards on the end or the side; just make sure you overlap them the exact same way on all four corners to ensure the length of the planter bed is the same on all sides. Grab your bar clamps and place two of them on the corner, holding all the pieces of wood together. If you're feeling finicky, you can use your level to make sure the walls are nice and level.

Full Of Holes
Using a power drill with a 3/8” spade bit, drill two bolt holes on each end of every wall of the planter. Carriage bolts will fit into these holes and keep your planter bed solid for years to come. There are a couple of important things to keep in mind when drilling. Make sure your bolt holes don't intersect on the inside of the 4x4 post or your carriage bolts won't fit. And don't drill all the way through the 4x4 or the opening will splinter and this could also keep the carriage bolts from slipping in easily.

Big Bolt Action
Remove the bar clamps and start pushing the carriage bolts into all the holes around the planter bed. The bolts won't slip in by themselves, so use your hammer and pound them in so they are flush with the boards. Once through, put a washer and nut on the end of every bolt and fasten them securely. You can tighten the nuts by hand, but you'll need a ratchet with a 3/8” head on it to tighten all the way

How To Make A Summer Hanging Basket

Prepare the compost and moss
Holland Park recommend mixing the compost with slow release granular fertiliser and water retaining crystals, using the amount recommended on the instructions. This will nourish your plants and give them a better chance of survival. With the moss, soak it in water for an hour before planting

Line the basket
Place the hanging basket on a pot to keep it steady and line the bottom with a layer of moss. Make sure this is at least a few centimetres thick, and wring out any excess water beforehand. Alternately place the Surfina and Indian mint onto the moss, protruding from the sides of the basket. Continue to line the basket with a second ring of moss on top of the plants, leaving the centre clear. Fill the centre with your compost, up to the top of the moss ring.

Repeat
Repeat the process of lining and filling, placing the plants in alternate holes to that of the previous layer to ensure an attractive pattern. Remember to make sure the roots come in contact with the soil in the baskets centre, otherwise they will struggle to survive. With your top ring of moss, ensure it is wrapped around the baskets rim so you get a polished finish

Planting
If you have used water retaining crystals in your compost, leave the basket for approximately three hours before planting into the soil. The crystals can cause the soil to expand dramatically, so this will give you the chance to remove any excess that may occur, and leave an even bed.Start planting your summer plants, gently opening the roots before placing into the soil. Once you are happy with your arrangement, water the basket with an entire watering can

Upkeep
Hang your basket where it will get plenty of sun, but with periods of shade in case the weather turns particularly hot. During summer months, water your basket every day in the early morning or evening, when evaporation is less. Remember to add a liquid fertilizer such as miracle grow to the water once a week. This is an important step, as it has the potential to double the bloomage come summer.

How To Plant A Herb Pot

You needn't have a huge herb garden to yield a variety of interesting flavours from your plants. A simple herb pot can provide you with lots of exciting plants to spice up your cooking

Preparing the pot
Make sure that your pot has holes in the bottom for good drainage. Take your gravel or grit, and pour this into the container to about a quarter of the pots depth. This will help water drain out from the bottom of the soil. Once the gravel is in place, start to fill with a multi purpose, or soil based compost. This should fill approximately three quarters of the pots remaining depth.

Planting
Start to place your plants into the pot, with about 15cm between each stem. Squeeze them gently from their pots, and tease the roots from the root ball to encourage them to search out. Place the taller plants in the centre of the display, and the trailing ones near the edge to ensure the best growth. The display may look messy at first, but do not worry, as this will start to fill out and look lush within a few weeks.

Filling in
Once you are happy with the positions, start to fill the gaps between the plants with compost. Firm this in to the gaps by pushing your fingers deep into the soil you have just added, being careful not to damage any roots. Add more if necessary. Leave a couple of centemetres between the pots rim and the soil, so it does not overflow when watered.

Topping
Cut the tops off of the taller plants, roughly halfing them in height. This will encourage them to bush out and provide more leaves to pick.

Fertilise
Take a controlled release fertilser such as Osmocoate, and push 3 - 5 into the soil, depending on your pot size. Simply push them deep in with your finger and then re-cover. These should last a whole season, meaning you needn't feed the pot again

Water
Water thoroughly, until it starts to drain out of the bottom of the pot. The compost needs to absorb a lot on first watering, so expect to apply four litres or so. Continue to water over the coming months every few days or when the soil seems dry.

Guide To Hydroponic Nutrients

In hydroponic gardening there is no soil used, so the plants get all their food and nutrients from a solution of water and nutrients mixed by the gardener. This film will teach about these nutrients

Nutrient strength
Most nutrients are supplied in a concentrated form in either a “grow” or ”bloom” formulation, each used at different stages of plant growth. Additionally, each formulation is supplied in two bottles marked A and B. The two should never be mixed together in their concentrated form. Young plants require a weaker nutrient solution, while more mature plants require a stronger solution. Nutrient strength is measured in cF, or Conductivity Factor. The more nutrients or salts in the water, the higher the conductivity. A cF metre has two electrical probes that are used to measure the current between them when it's inserted into water. To decide how strong to make your nutrient solution, you first need to take a background reading of the water without nutrients added. For example, some tap water has a fairly high cF reading of 5, which means it has quite a lot of mineral content already in it. If you're using a nutrient concentrate for mature plants, for which the maximum cF of the solution should be between 18 and 23. So if you take into account the fact that the water is already 5 cF, you should mix the solution at the upper end of the scale, at about 23 cF. If you've mixed a solution that is too strong, you can always add more water to dilute it. Remember that over-fertilising plants can be just as bad as under-fertilising them. Other additives to put in your nutrient solution include a plant booster and tonic, which also adds beneficial bacteria to the water, as well as a blend of hormones and vitamins to assist root development.

pH Level
Once you have mixed your nutrient solution, you need to check the pH level of the water, for which you should always use a calibrated pH metre. Start by taking some pH calibrating solution and putting it into a clean container. Put the end of the pH metre into the solution, and let it stand for about 15 seconds. When used at a room temperature of 25 degrees celsius, the solution will give an accurate reading of pH 7. Use a small screwdriver to change the screw adjustment on the back of the metre, and turn it until the metre reads exactly 7. Now discard the calibrating solution – don't reuse it. Your metre should now give you accurate readings. The ideal pH level you should aim for is between 5.8 and 6.3, but a slight variance on either side of this is OK. If the pH level is too high, add a small amount of phosphoric acid to the water to bring it down. The acid needs to be handled carefully, as it can be quite dangerous. Follow the instructions on the bottle. The pH of your solution will change daily, usually going up. It's best not to correct the pH level every day though, as this can result in too much phosphoric acid in the solution. Instead, let the pH level drift for two or three days before readjusting.

How To Set Up An Hydroponic Garden

The Nutrient Film Technique, or NFT, system is one of the oldest and most popular types of hydroponic system, and works by constantly pumping a thin film of nutrient solution directly to the roots of the plants. This film will show you how to set up an NFT hydroponic garden.

Preparation
Start by placing the top tray onto the nutrient tank, and screw it on to attach it. The top tray is shorter than the tank, leaving a gap at one end for adding water and nutrients. Don't use water directly from the tap in your NFT system. Allow it to stand for 24 hours first, so that the chlorine can evaporate. Use opaque, rather than clear buckets, as light causes algae to start forming in the water. During the 24 hours, the water should also adjust to room temperature, or roughly 20 degrees Celsius.

Water and additives
You will now add the water and nutrients to the tank in stages. Start by pouring in two-thirds of a bucket of water, before you add any nutrients. Most nutrients are supplied in a concentrated form in either a “grow” or ”bloom” formulation each used at different stages of plant growth. Additionally, each formulation is supplied in two bottles marked A and B. The two should never be mixed together in their concentrated form. Give the bottle of Grow A nutrient a good shake, then use a syringe to measure it out. Follow the instructions on the bottle to see how much nutrient to use. In this case we're making a fairly weak “grow” solution for young plants, using only 2 millilitres of grow A and B per litre of water. Add the A nutrient to the tank, and then rinse out the syringe with water. Now add the remaining third of the bucket of water. Add the B nutrient to the tank, using the same method as before. Now add some more water from the second bucket, to mix up the solution even more. Other additives you should put in the water at this stage, are a plant booster and tonic, which also adds beneficial bacteria to the water, as well as a blend of hormones and vitamins to assist root development. Add some more water to mix the solution up again. For more information about additives, watch the film ‘Guide to Hydroponic Plant Food.

Testing the pH level
The ideal pH level you should aim for should be between 5.8 – 6.3, but a slight variance on either side of this is OK. Take a pH reading of the water with a calibrated pH metre. If the pH level is too high, add a small amount of phosphoric acid to the water to bring it down. The acid needs to be handled carefully, as it can be quite dangerous. Follow the instructions on the bottle. Now add the last bit of water, up to the maximum level which is marked inside the tank.

The top tray
You will need a flow pump, to pump the water and nutrients into the top tray. This will have a delivery tube, which fits in a hole in the side of the top tray. Switch the pump on, so that the water flows into the gulleys of the top tray. The tray is at a slight incline, so gravity causes the water to flow all the way to the other end, and out through a hole in the bottom. Next, lay down some nutrient spreader mat into the top tray. The mat spreads the water and nutrients out evenly to form a thin film. Cut the spreader mat into pieces to cover the whole of the tray.

The lid
You will need a correx lid over the top tray, to keep the plants' roots in darkness. The plants will be in rockwool blocks, so you need to cut holes the same size as the blocks into the lid. Stagger the holes, to spread the plants out as much as possible. Cut a flap at the end of the lid, to give you easy access to the nutrient tank. Now that water has been pumping through the system for a while, this is a good time to measure the pH level again. If it's still too high, add some more phosphoric acid. Remember that the water should be kept at roughly 20 degrees Celsius, so in winter you will probably need to put a small thermostatically controlled water heater into the tank.

The plants
Plants are pre-prepared by propagating them in a small rockwool block. When the roots are long enough, they are placed into the hole in the centre of a larger rockwool block, which has been soaked in seedling nutrient solution. When the roots are dangling from the bottom of the block, it should be placed into the hole in the Correx lid, with the grooves in the bottom of the block facing the same direction as the flow of the water. Now do the same for the rest of the plants, and you have finished setting up your NFT hydroponic garden. For more information about the lights to use with this system, watch the film ‘Guide To Hydroponic Lights'.

How To Make A Compost

How To Make A Compost Pile: A compost pile is essential for any garden, as not only does it help you recycle nasty garbage, but it improves the quality of your soil, and therefore your garden.

Find a Spot
Any pile of organic matter will eventually rot, but a well-chosen site can speed up the process. And that's good! Rotted organic matter equals compost--and growing plants love the stuff.Look for a level area that drains well. Build the pile over soil or lawn rather than concrete or asphalt. The earthworms and other natural occurrences in dirt and grasses help with decomposition.Sunlight is important to the composting process but you don't want your pile to be in a spot where the sunlight is direct all day as it will dry out the pile and prolong the process.

Collect Organic Materials
Grass clippings, leaves, plant stalks and twigs are great compost material and add nitrogen to your compost mix…which it needs. Kitchen garbage for compost includes fruit rinds, carrot peelings, tea bags, apple cores, banana peels, egg shells, coffee grounds - almost any natural product which cycles through your kitchen. Manure can also be a fine compost ingredient. This process can be ongoing. You can constantly add to your pile over time.Materials that should NOT be composted are any which promote disease, cause odors, attract pests, or create other problems. Meat, fish, poultry, dairy products, foods containing animal fats, human/pet feces, and weeds with developed seed heads. Note: Compost will decompose much more quickly if chopped or broken up a bit when adding.

Maintain or Don't Maintain.
The care of your compost pile can range from passive - allowing the materials to sit and rot on their own - to highly managed. If you're anxious to get as much compost as possible for immediate use in your garden, you may want to be a little more hands-on. If your goal is to simply dispose of yard waste in a way that is more responsible that burning it or dumping it, a more relaxed method may be your answer. But keep in mind, a pile that is not mixed may take up to 34 times longer to decompose.Nonetheless, you want to keep your pile moist- approximately the same level of wetness as a wrung out sponge. This promotes decomposition in an even, healthy manner and will get you the most vitamin rich compost in the end.

Wait.
A well-built, well-maintained pile can turn to compost in as early as 2-3 weeks. Finished compost is dark brown, crumbly, and has an earthy odor. It shouldn't stink

How To Make A Simple Easy Compost Bin

How To Set Up An Indoor Garden Part Five

Small Space Gardening: How To Set Up An Indoor Garden, Part Five

How To Set Up An Indoor Garden Part Four

How To Set Up An Indoor Garden Part Three

How To Set Up An Indoor Garden Part Two

How To Set Up An Indoor Garden Part One

How To Plant Onions

Prepare the site
Onions should be planted in sunny or partially shaded sites that are sheltered from the wind. Loosen the soil with a fork and remove any weeds or large stones. Use a rake to create a level surface. If you have poor soil you may want to add well-rotted organic matter before you start sowing. Use the head of the rake to lightly press down the soil and lightly rake the surface once more

Plant
Onions should be planted in shallow rows called 'drills'. Lay a piece of string on the soil as a guide to make sure you dig the row in a straight line. Lay a plank of wood next to your line. Then, use a cane or hoe to dig a narrow drill about 1 centimetre deep. Drop the seeds into the drills at the spacing recommended on the packet. If you are planting more than one drill, leave a 30 centimetre gap between each one. Using a hoe, gently cover the seeds with soil. Then using the head of the metal rake, lightly firm the soil.

Water
If the soil is dry, water the seeds in. The soil should be kept moist and free of weeds throughout the growing season. It is also useful to label your onions so you know where and when they were planted.

Protect
To protect your plants from late frosts in Spring, build a frame to cover the drills. Push the sides of the fabric into the soil, or fix it in place with canes. Remove the fleece when the seeds germinate and the plants are visible through the soil.

How To Plant Carrots

Growing Fruit & Vegetables: How To Plant Carrots

Prepare the site
Carrots should be planted in sunny or partially shaded sites that are sheltered from the wind. Loosen the soil with a fork and remove any weeds or large stones. Use a rake to create a level surface. If you have poor soil you may want to add well-rotted organic matter before you start sowing. Use the head of the rake to lightly press down the soil and lightly rake the surface once more

Plant
Carrots should be planted in shallow rows called 'drills'. Lay a piece of string on the soil as a guide to make sure you dig the row in a straight line. Lay a plank of wood next to your line. Then, use a cane or hoe to dig a narrow drill about 1 centimetre deep. Drop the seeds into the drills at the spacing recommended on the packet. If you are planting more than one drill, leave a 15-20 centimetre gap between each one. Using a hoe, gently cover the seeds with soil. Then using the head of the metal rake, lightly firm the soil.

Water
If the soil is dry, water the seeds in. The soil should be kept moist and free of weeds throughout the growing season. It is also useful to label your carrots so you know where and when they were planted.

Protect
To protect your plants from late frosts in Spring, build a frame to cover the drills. Push the sides of the fabric into the soil, or fix it in place with canes. Remove the fleece when the seeds germinate and the plants are visible through the soil.

How To Plant Spring Onions

Prepare the site
Spring onions should be planted in sunny or partially shaded sites that are sheltered from the wind. Loosen the soil with a fork and remove any weeds or large stones. Use a rake to create a level surface. If you have poor soil you may want to add well-rotted organic matter before you start sowing. Use the head of the rake to lightly press down the soil and lightly rake the surface once more.

Plant
Spring onions should be planted in shallow rows called 'drills'. Lay a piece of string on the soil as a guide to make sure you dig the row in a straight line. Lay a plank of wood next to your line. Then, use a cane or hoe to dig a narrow drill about 1.5 centimetres deep. Drop the seeds into the drills at the spacing recommended on the packet. If you are planting more than one drill, leave a 30 centimetre gap between each one. Using a hoe, gently cover the seeds with soil. Then using the head of the metal rake, lightly firm the soil.

Water
If the soil is dry, water the seeds in. The soil should be kept moist and free of weeds throughout the growing season. It is also useful to label your onions so you know where and when they were planted.

Protect
To protect your plants from late frosts in Spring, build a frame to cover the drills. Push the sides of the fabric into the soil, or fix it in place with canes. Remove the fleece when the seeds germinate and the plants are visible through the soil.

How To Plant Potatoes

Prepare the site
Potatoes should be planted in sunny sites in fertile, slightly acidic soil. For more information on soil types, see VideoJug's 'How To Test Soil pH'. Loosen the soil with a fork and remove any weeds or stones. If you have poor soil you may want to add organic matter or a multi-purpose fertiliser

Plant
Lay a piece of string on the soil as a guide so the potatoes are planted in a straight line. Position the potatoes along the string line at 40 centimetre (16 inch) intervals. Use a spade to dig individual holes for each potato at a depth of approximately 15 centimetres (6 inches). Place each potato in its hole with the end with the most eyes pointing upwards. If you want to plant more than one row, they should be positioned at least 50 centimetres (20 inches) apart

Cover
Gently sweep the soil over the tubers so they are covered. As the shoots emerge through the soil, they should be re-covered with soil so that only the tip is exposed. This will encourage more potatoes to develop beneath the surface

Leave to grow
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing period. The potatoes should be ready for harvesting in early to late Summer, depending on the variety of potato.

How To Plant Tomatoes

Starter plants
Starting tomato plants indoors from seed can be tricky. We recommend buying starter plants from your garden store

Prep the Outdoor Site
As the weather warms, select your planting location. Tomatoes need a ton of sun so find a place that isn't obstructed as the sun moves during the day. Prep the soil by adding fertilizer or compost since tomatoes prefer soil that is rich in organic matter. Compost is often recommended as a great chemical free source of fertilizer. See the Videojug film, “How to Make Compost Pile” for an easy how-to. Generally, your plants should be spaced about 24 inches apart. But there are lot of tomato varieties so be sure to check the information that came with your plants to determine the exact spacing

Plant and Maintain
Dig a hole for the plant. The hole should be about the size of a full size soccer ball. Seriously! If you plant the tomato plant deeply, you will encourage the growth of the roots. And you want that…tomatoes are heavy at full size! Move your plant from the pot to the hole. Make sure the roots are free and not balled up. Place the plant in the hole and re-pack the dirt around it by hand. Because growing plants will need support, place a stake, tomato cage, or small trellis next to each plant. This will give your plants something to lean on as they grow. Don't forget to water your plants on a regular basis as they'll need more and more water as they mature. After that, all you need to do is pick the fruits as they ripen.

How To Plant Garlic

Prepare the site
Loosen the soil with a fork and remove any weeds or large stones. Garlic should be planted in sunny or partially shaded sites that are sheltered from the wind. They shouldn't be planted in heavy clay soils. Use a landscape rake to create a level surface. If you have poor soil you may want to add organic matter before you start sowing the cloves.

Choose your cloves
Split the head of garlic into separate cloves. The best cloves for planting are around the edge of the bulb as they should be plump and hard

Sow
An easy way to plant garlic cloves is to make rows of small holes in the soil. Lay a piece of string on the soil as a guide to make sure you dig the rows in a straight line. Each row should be about 30 centimetres apart. Use a trowel to dig small holes about 5 centimetres deep. The cloves should be positioned about 15 centimetres apart with the tips pointing upwards.

Cover
Fill in the trenches by gently sweeping the soil back over the cloves.

Water
If you are planting your cloves in Autumn, you won't need to water them after planting unless the soil is very dry. If you are planting in Spring they may need watering to keep the soil moist.

Label
You may want to label your garlic so you know where and when they were planted.

Leave to grow
If planted in Autumn, your garlic will be ready to be harvested by late Spring.

How To Plant Vegetables In Pots

Fill the pot
Sieve the soil over the pot. Use your hand to break up any lumps. When the pot is full, scrape off any excess with a striking board or your hand and use a firming board or your hand to press down the soil to about a centimetre below the lip of the pot

Sow
Tear open the seeds and drop them one at a time about a centimetre apart. You could use a dibber to help even them out

Cover
Sprinkle a little regular soil or vermiculite soil over the seeds. Whichever you choose, the soil cover should only be twice the height of the seeds.

Water
Turn the rose so that it is facing upwards. Start running the water at the side of the pot, this will prevent disruption to the soil surface as you water the soil. Pass it over the seeds about 4 times.

Label
Lastly, you should label your seeds. Use an indelible pen to put the date on one side of the label, and the seed type on the other.

Leave to grow
Different seeds require different growing conditions. Check the packet. It's usually somewhere warm and sunny like a greenhouse or a window sill. Water regularly.

كتاب ألف ليلة وليلة 3 ثلاث نسخ مختلفه

ألف ليلة وليلة هي مجموعة متنوعة من القصص الشعبية عددها حوالي مائتي قصة تتداخل لغتها بين الفصحى والعامية, ويتخللها شعر و من الحقائق الثابتة حول أصلها, فهى أنها لم تخرج بصورتها الحالية, وإنما أُلّفت على مراحل وأضيفت إليها على مر الزمن مجموعات من القصص بعضها مأخوذ من أخبار العرب وقصصهم ,أما موطن هذه القصص, فقد ثبت أنها تمثل بيئات شتى خيالية وواقعية, وأكثر البيئات بروزا هي في العراق وسوريا ومصر, والقصص بشكلها الحالي يرجح كتابتها في القرن الرابع عشر الميلادي 1500م. ويميل بعض النقاد إلى الاعتقاد بأن واضع هذا الكتاب ليس فردا واحدا بالرغم من إجماعهم على ان نواة ألف ليله وليلة فارسية, ويميل بعضهم إلى الجزم بأن أصل الكتاب هندي مع إقرار ببعض الفضل للفرس والعرب فيه فهناك حكايات عديدة نسبت إلى الهند وبلاد فارس وحكايات تنسب إلى بغداد و الكوفة والبصرة ودمشق والقاهرة ومصر و اليمن. كما كانت مصدرا لإلهام الكثير من الرسامين والموسيقيين. وتحتوي قصص ألف ليلة وليلة على شخصيات أدبية خيالية مشهورة كعلاء الدين، وعلي بابا والسندباد،بدور ،شهرزاد و شهريار، الشاطر حسن. وتسمى في البلاد الغربية Arabian Nights أي الليالي العربية يبدأ ترجمها إلى الفرنسية المستشرق الفرنسي انطوان جالان عام 1704م, والذي صاغ الكتاب بتصرف كبير, و صار معظم الكتاب يترجم عنه طوال القرن الثامن عشر وما تلاه لتحميل النسخه الاصليه pdf من اربع اجزاء 1- 2- 3- 4- لتحميل النسخه الاصليه html من جزئين 1- 2- لتحميل النسخه المعده للاطفال وتحتاج برنامج خاص لعرضها وهو بداخل نفس الملف المضغوط

كتاب وصف مصر Description de l'Égypte

Frank and Nancy Sinatra